Knowing what actually happens during a new roof installation in Honing means you can ask the right questions, check the work is being done properly, and avoid the surprises that make roofing projects go wrong.
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A new roof is not a single task - it is a sequence of stages, each one depending on the last. Skipping or rushing any stage creates problems that may not show up for months or years, by which time they are much more expensive to fix. This page walks through the process as it should be carried out, so you know what to expect when you take on a new roof in Honing or any of the nearby villages around North Walsham.
Before any scaffolding goes up or any materials are ordered, the roof needs a proper look. This means more than a glance from the driveway. A roofer should access the loft space to inspect the rafters, purlins, ridge board and any existing underfelt. From the outside, they should check the condition of flashings, ridge, hips, valleys, chimneys and any areas where different roof planes meet.
The assessment answers two questions. First, does the structure beneath the tiles need any attention before a new covering goes on? Second, what material and fixing method is appropriate for this particular roof - its pitch, its exposure, and the style of the property? Only once these questions are answered can an accurate price be given for the job. A quote produced without a proper inspection is almost always missing something.
A new roof cannot be safely carried out from a ladder alone. Scaffolding is required for all but the smallest outbuilding roofs. The scaffold must give safe working access to the whole roof surface, including the ridgeline and any chimney stacks. It also protects the property below - materials stripped from the roof need somewhere safe to land, and a scaffold board catch system or netting prevents debris falling onto windows, conservatories and paths.
Before stripping starts, any vulnerable areas around the base of the building should be protected. Garden furniture, conservatory roofs, skylights and parked vehicles all need to be considered. Clear communication between the roofer and the homeowner at this stage avoids damage and disputes later.
The old tiles, slate or covering are stripped off first, followed by the old battens and underfelt. All of this material comes down to the scaffolding and is loaded into skips or taken away by the roofer. The stripping stage reveals the true condition of the roof structure.
It is at this point that hidden problems often become visible - rotten rafters, damaged or undersized purlins, previous botched repairs, inadequate original construction. Any structural defects found at this stage need to be dealt with before proceeding. If rotten timber is found, it should be cut out and replaced, not simply treated in situ. Covering over a structural problem with a new tile is the kind of shortcut that comes back to cost the homeowner significantly more money later on.
The stripped timbers should be visually inspected across the whole roof. Any timber that has softened, delaminated or shows signs of insect damage should be flagged and replaced as necessary.
Once the structure is sound, the new breathable roofing membrane goes on. This is the layer that sits between the tiles and the rafters. It allows water vapour from inside the building to escape upward while preventing liquid water from reaching the timbers if a tile is displaced. Modern breathable membranes have replaced the old bitumen felt in most applications - bitumen felt is impermeable and can cause condensation problems in the roof void.
New treated timber battens are fixed over the membrane, running horizontally across the roof. The spacing between battens is calculated according to the gauge of the chosen tile or slate - the gauge determines how much of each tile is exposed and therefore how much overlap there is between courses. Correct gauge is critical: too wide a spacing reduces the overlap and allows wind-driven rain to push back under the tiles; too narrow a spacing wastes material and adds unnecessary weight.
Tiling starts at the eaves and works upward. Each tile hooks over the batten and, in the more exposed sections of the roof, is additionally fixed with nails or stainless steel clips. The specific fixing requirements depend on the pitch and exposure of the roof - British Standard BS 5534 sets out the minimum fixing requirements for different situations. On any roof that faces into prevailing weather, additional mechanical fixing is necessary even if the tile manufacturer's basic specification does not require it.
At hips and valleys, tiles need to be cut to fit neatly. Valleys in particular need careful attention: they carry large volumes of water running from two roof planes and must be formed correctly in lead or a purpose-made valley trough to prevent leaks. A cut valley formed directly from tiles alone is less reliable and requires more maintenance.
Verge tiles at the gable ends need to be either bedded and pointed in mortar or, better, fixed using a dry-verge system. Dry-verge systems are mechanically fixed with no mortar to crack and fall away, which makes them far more durable in exposed locations.
The ridge is the highest point of the roof and takes the most exposure. Ridge tiles should be fixed using a dry-fix mechanical system: a continuous ventilated ridge batten is screwed to the ridge board, and the ridge tiles are clipped into place over a foam filler that seals the gap without using mortar. Mortar-bedded ridges crack as the roof moves with temperature changes, and once cracking starts, water gets in and the mortar eventually falls away entirely. Dry-fix ridges avoid this and do not need periodic re-pointing.
Lead flashings are fitted at every junction between the roof and a vertical surface - chimney stacks, parapet walls, dormer cheeks, and where the roof meets a neighbouring wall. Lead is the material of choice for flashings because it is soft enough to be dressed into shape, durable, and can be stepped or soaker-coursed for a fully watertight junction. Flashings should never be reused from the old roof when a new roof is being laid - old lead is harder to dress and may have cracking or corrosion that is not immediately visible.
Once tiling and flashings are complete, the whole roof should be checked from the ridge down. Any tiles that have seated incorrectly should be adjusted. Laps and overhangs at the eaves should be checked against the specified dimensions. Gutters and downpipes should be cleared of any debris that has collected during the work.
The scaffold comes down once the roofer is satisfied that everything is complete and that there is nothing left to access. Before the scaffold is struck, it is worth taking a final look at the ridge, any chimneys and the verges from scaffolding level - once the scaffold is gone, these areas can only be seen from a distance.
All waste materials from the old roof - tiles, felt, battens - should be removed from site by the roofer as part of the job. Skip hire and disposal costs should be included in the quotation.
When the work is finished, ask the roofer to walk you through what was done and point out any structural repairs that were carried out. Ask to see the loft from inside before the scaffolding comes down, so you can confirm there are no gaps in the membrane or daylight visible. Check that gutters are clear and that downpipes are running freely. If any additional timber repairs were carried out, ask what was replaced and why.
We carry out new roof installations in Honing and across the surrounding villages. If you want to understand what a new roof on your property would involve before committing to anything, call North Walsham Roofers and we will arrange a visit to assess the roof and talk through the process with you.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
